I approached this line semi-blindly, even though I knew the name of the line I was testing I had covered up the name of each fragrance and completely stayed away from even knowing what kind of notes were in each one. I began my process slowly and over time began to develop a feel for the whole line, which I must say has impressed me with their versatility and complexity. It is often difficult to pinpoint particular notes or even describe what I smell exactly due to excellent craftsmanship of the blending of the notes that are beautifully multi-layered.
ACT ONE – THE EXPREINCES
SCENE I
TERRALBA (IN FRONT OF YOU, THE SEA. BEHIND, THE MIDIERRANEAN, SHRUBLAND. IT IS MORN.)
Such a boozy dark green leafy scent that wowed me from the start! The scent opens up with woods, what appears to be light florals, and some sour citrus notes. This one immediately reminded me of the spring and summer weather. I can see this fragrance working really well for night time due to its allure qualities (I had to do many double sniffs because it was so unusual and attractive). I feel this has a very modern unisex feel; it’s both young and energetic quality with strategically well blended notes to give it sophistication. The dry down on me had a brightly crisp masculine quality that I believe is supported by a moss or fern type accords – has a little metallic feel that I enjoyed in Chanel’s Platinum Egoiste.
PERFUMER DELPHINE THIERRY
Head Notes Clary Sage, Lemon, Green Tangerine
Heart Notes Myrtle, Thyme, Curry Leaves, Everlasting Flower
Base Notes Lentisc, Juniper, Cypress, Cedar Wood
SCENE II
MONTECRISTO (IN THE LIVINGROOM OF AN OLD VILLA, IN THE TUSCAN COUNTRYSIDE. IT IS THE CLOSE OF THE DAY)
This one is a beautifully blended woody cognac scent that is covered in this fine tobacco which gives the scent this opulent richness and sophistication. The scent is clouded by beautiful subtle smoky incense that pairs well with sweetness that rounds the edges. As the scent settles on the skin, a resin accord peeks slightly to say hello but stays primarily behind the scenes. Overall, the scent feels very dark and mysterious when wearing it on my skin. Development is minimal but I was not complaining because I really enjoyed the general feel of the scent. Longevity is excellent with subtle projection over time. Fans of Amouage Jubilation 25 for Men need to try this one.
PERFUMER DELPHINE THIERRY
Head Notes Cabreuva, Ambrette Seeds, Rum
Heart Notes Tobacco Leaves, Celery Seeds, Cistus, Benzoin
Base Notes Golden Stone, Styrax Gum, Gaiac Wood, Cedar Wood, Patchouli
SCENE III
RUSSIAN TEA (BOY FADED; ON THE TABLE, GLOWING, THE SAMOVAR OF EVENING BOILED)
A finely spiced fine leather enveloping scent! The fragrance on me opens with this gentle, yet distinctly masculine equality that wafts softly through the air. The leather seems to be a dominant note that sits on top of what could be soft woods, which rounds off the scent quite nicely. Usually I enjoy my leather scents during the cooler weather, but this particular scent with how it projects and sits on my skin I would have no problem applying moderately during warmer weather. The project on me is at arm’s length which is very much appreciate by me – I would want this scent to be noticed by others around me because it’s so good; while longevity is moderate. I immediately fell in love with this scent because I feel it compliments my lifestyle completely!
PERFUMER JULIEN RASQUINET
Head Notes Mint, Black Pepper, Raspberry
Heart Notes Black Tea, Magnolia, Everlasting Flower
Base Notes Leather accord, Incense, Birchwood, Cistus-Labdanum
SCENE I
LUCI ED OMBRE (DEEP DOWN IN YOUR SOUL)
A fern/herb jammy thick scent that has nice weight to it! Sweetness on my skin is very apparent from the opening which sits on this green background and surrounded by woods. This scent feels overwhelmingly masculine and powerful in a very modern way – it’s both young and energetic with subtle class and sophistication. The blending is very stable and feels that is composed of many notes that complement one another harmoniously. I don’t feel a certain note dominates more than the other, it rather feels more like a symphonic melody. Projection and longevity is moderate.
PERFUMER MEO FUSCIUNI
Light notes Incense.
Chiaroscuros Ginger, Tuberose, Jasmine, Moss.
Dark notes Incense, Cedarwood, Patchouli.
SCENE IV
TANGO
A resinous opening topped with light woods that are topped with chocolate! On my skin this one was at first a mysterious because I couldn’t pinpoint exactly what I was smelling – it was very mysterious to me. With each passing wearing I felt more comfortable describing this scent and new notes are discovered each time. I want to say that there is a boozy aspect to this fragrance, which could be aged rum or whiskey accord that I enjoy. Development of the scent is minimal on me but the impression is that of an intoxicated floral accord which dances in room filled with wooden carving sculptures from langsyne. Projection and longevity were moderate.
PERFUMER CÉCILE ZAROKIAN
Head notes Bergamot, black pepper, cardamom
Heart notes Sambac jasmine abs, Damascena rose oil, cumin, patchouli
Base notes Vanilla bean, tonka bean, melilot abs, amber accord, leather accord, benzoin, muscs
NOTE: SAMPLES WERE PROVIDED BY MASQUE MILANO. NAMES ADDED TO FRAGRANCES IN THE REVIEW WERE DONE AFTER TESTING.